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“In this stage, you will assemble parts of the left-hand side of the engine, as well as fitting the dipstick and ignition wire junction.”
Contents
Parts
Materials: Everything in this pack is plastic except for the Left Engine Block and Left Engine Support.
Build
Left Engine Block, Dipstick & Ignition Wire Junction
Step 01
Insert the Left Engine Support into the bracket on the side of the Left Engine Block and secure it with two (2) black DM screws, as shown.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Next, secure the Engine Block Lower Part to the inside of the engine block with one (1) DM screw.
The tab of this Engine Block Lower Part is not in the center of the part. Based on the tab’s location, I will label the ends ‘Close’ and ‘Far’:
The ‘Close’ end is what should be touching the Left Engine Block here (with the screw head on the ‘Far’ end):
If you have done this correctly, the front of the these two parts should be flush with each other:
Push the pin on the end of the Dipstick into this matching hole of the Left Engine Block:
Step 02
Like I did in the previous stage, I took my Metallic Silver Sharpie to the bolt heads of this Left Cylinder Head to add some contrast:
Slide the tabs of the Left Exhaust Manifold into these matching slots of the Left Cylinder Head:
Secure the manifold in place from below with three (3) black AP screws:
Fit the tab of the Ignition Wire Junction into this recess of the Left Cylinder Head.
This is the small recess that the tab of the junction will rest in:
Make sure the junction is facing the correct direction. It will be held in place by the Cylinder Head Cover in the next step:
Place the Left Cylinder Head Cover on top of the cylinder head, as shown, and secure with four (4) black BP screws.
There is a small notch in this cover (yellow circle below) that fits around the Ignition Wire Junction and captures it in place:
Step 03
Place this Left Cylinder Head assembly onto the Left Engine Block.
Make sure the Dipstick slides up between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold:
Secure the cylinder head into place from below with two (2) black AP screws:
Step 04
Retrieve the Gearbox assembly from the previous stage. Fit the tab of the Gearbox Connector over this post of the Left Engine Block and secure it into place with one (1) black DM screw:
Thoughts
This engine continues to grow in size and I love it. I can’t wait for the next packs!
Next Up
Stage 7 – Timing Belt Cover, Water Pump, Oil Sump, Engine Top/Cover, Distributor, Intake Manifold, Right Engine Block/Exhaust Manifold
I really wish they didn’t rely so heavily upon screws. Some of these are really unsightly.
Do you have a list of the paints you used?
I have all of the paints I have used listed in my Shop.
Thanks
Thanks. Are all paints listed used on the Ecto-1?
No, the shop has every paint I have ever used on all my partwork builds. I haven’t made a paints list for the Ecto-1, but I can.
“No, the shop has every paint I have ever used on all my partwork builds. I haven’t made a paints list for the Ecto-1, but I can.”
That would be awesome!!! Thank you!!
Just want to leave another note of thanks. I don’t even use the build instructions from Eaglemoss anymore. Just turn to your guide and follow along with the perfect images and helpful hints and tips.
Thanks a ton!
You are very welcome, thank you for the feedback!
Please keep me posted!!
Done! Check out my new The Colors page!
Awesome!! Thank you!! Also I see you mentioned isopropyl alcohol to thin the paint. Do you thin out all of them before application?
I thin all of the Tamiya acrylics to about 50/50 with 70% isopropyl alcohol as it allows for faster drying. Water or the specific brand’s thinner can always be used with acrylics as well. Citadel doesn’t seem to mix well with the alcohol, so I use water there. Model Masters doesn’t seem to matter either way.