STAGE 8

 Return to the BUILD


“In this stage, you will fit the right cylinder block to the rest of the engine, and assemble and fit the fuel pump, fuel filter, starter motor, and ignition coil.”

 

Contents


Parts

Materials: Everything in this stage is plastic.

Tools

  • Tweezers

Build


Right Engine Block

Like I did in previous stages, I took my Metallic Silver Sharpie to some of the exposed bolt heads of the parts in this stage:

I also used a Metallic Gold Sharpie on some of the silver parts to give them some contrasting color:

Step 01

Slide the tabs of the Right Exhaust Manifold (from the previous stage) into these matching slots of the Right Cylinder Head:

Secure the manifold in place from below with three (3) black AP screws:

Fit the tab of the Ignition Wire Junction into this recess of the Right Cylinder Head.

This is the small cutout in the Right Cylinder Head that the tab of the junction will rest in:

Place the Right Cylinder Head Cover on top of the cylinder head, as shown, and secure with four (4) black BP screws.

There is a small notch in this cover (yellow circle below) that fits around the Ignition Wire Junction and captures it in place:

Step 02

Place this Right Cylinder Head assembly onto the Right Engine Block (from the previous stage):

Secure the cylinder head into place from below with two (2) black AP screws:

Now, we can fit this Right Engine Block assembly to the rest of the engine (from the previous stage). Slide it into place between the Timing Belt Cover and Gearbox, as shown.

This takes a little wiggling to get it to fit in there, but it will go in:

… and secure it with two (2) black DM screws.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Step 03

Fit the Fuel Pump Bracket to the Fuel Pump and secure them together with one (1) black AP screw.

There are two holes in the side of the Fuel Pump, we will call them ‘upper’ and ‘lower’:

The Fuel Pump Bracket has a screw hole and a pin on the back:

Match up the pin to the ‘lower’ hole of the Fuel Pump, aligning the screw hole to the ‘upper’ hole so it ends up like this:

Push the Fuel Filter Cap down into the opening of the Fuel Filter.

There is a keyed post and matching slot that align these correctly. It should sit flush and not require any screws to stay in place:

These will be loose until we attach them in the next step:

Fit this Fuel Filter assembly to this tab of the Fuel Filter Bracket, as shown, and secure from below with one (1) black FP screw:

With this step complete, we should now have this:

Step 04

Place this Fuel Filter assembly over the post of the Fuel Pump Lower at the front top of the engine:

This post is keyed, so the Fuel Filter assembly will need to be aligned to sit down flush:

Fit the Fuel Pump Cover on top of the post, then secure all of these parts to the engine with one (1) black BP screw.

This Fuel Pump Cover is also keyed to match the notch in the top of the pump:

I ‘painted’ the head of this screw with my Metallic Gold Sharpie to better match the rest of the pump details:

Step 05

These are the parts you will need for this step:

Push the Ignition Coil Cap into the open end of the Ignition Coil:

Push the thicker end of the Ignition Coil Plug into the hole at the other end:

Secure this coil assembly to the top rear of the Intake Manifold with one (1) black BP screw.

The bottom of the Ignition Coil has a pin and screw hole. Use these to align it to the manifold correctly:

Step 06

I’ve never seen a fully black spark plug in my life. Therefore, these needed a little paint work. I used my Metallic Silver Sharpie to paint the nut first. Then, I painted the ceramic insulator shaft with some Tamiya XF-2 Flat White acrylic paint. I left the boot black (as they typically are). The spark plug wires will then fit over the pin on the boot end and should appear more realistic. These three spark plugs show how the different steps look:

Lay out the eight (8) Spark Plugs:

Push the thicker end of one Spark Plug into each of these four holes of the Right Cylinder Head:

Eaglemoss supplies a pair of Tweezers with this stage and you will likely need them here!

Then on the other side of the engine, push the thicker end of one Spark Plug into each of these four holes of the Left Cylinder Head:

Push the Vacuum Advance Unit onto the tab at the side of the Distributor Assembly:

This part can be pushed on either way, it is the same all around:

Push the pin of the Dipstick into this small D-shaped hole in the Engine Block Top, next to the Distributor Assembly:

Next, locate the nine (9) Distributor Cap Plugs:

Push the shorter pin of the first Distributor Cap Plug into the center hole of the Distributor Assembly (it should face forward):

Push the shorter ends of the remaining Distributor Cap Plugs into each hole at the top of the Distributor Assembly, like this:

Finally, connect the Coil Wire between the pins of the Ignition Coil and the center Distributor Cap Plug.

This ‘wire’ has to be cut down if you want it to fit better. Give it a test fit and then use sprue cutters or other sharp tool to shorten it:

Step 07

Fit the Starter Motor to the Bell Housing Plate (on the right side of the engine) and secure with one (1) black BM screw.

There is a small pin on the Starter Motor:

This pin will fit into a recess on the face of the Gearbox when this is correctly fitted. When it is flush like this, you have it right:

Insert the Drive Pinion through the open end of the Starter Motor.

There is a flat edge on the inside edge of the Drive Pinion:

Match this to the D-shaped opening at the front of the Starter Motor so it sits flush:

Secure these together from the other end with one (1) black AP screw:

Finally, fit the Starter Solenoid to the Starter Motor, aligning the pin and screw hole.

This pin…

… fits into this hole:

So you end up with this:

Secure the Starter Solenoid from the other side with one (1) black BP screw:

Thoughts


That was a lot of tiny parts to work with! Even though I have really nice tweezers, I am glad that Eaglemoss supplied some tweezers with this stage.  This stage had so many bits and pieces that I ended up taking about 300 pictures to end up with the ones you see here. I want to make sure these steps make sense to my visitors.

Next Up


Stage 9 – Fast Idle Cam, Fuel Inlet/Pipe, Choke Cap, Carburetor, Air Filter, Air Filter Side/Inlet/Cover/Screw

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