Return to the BUILD
“In this stage, you assemble and fit the radio receiver to the dashboard as well as the first wires for the electronic functions of your model.”
This is going to be a longer stage to build due all of the wiring. I highly recommend reading through this entire page before starting.
Materials: Everything in this stage is plastic.
Push the two pins of the Display into the matching upper holes of the Regency ACT-R 20/6 Radio Receiver, as shown.
This was a push fit and did not require any screws or glue:
Push the two pins of the Slide Switch into the matching lower holes of the Radio Receiver, as shown.
This was also a push fit:
Retrieve your Dashboard Upper Panel assembly from the previous stage. Fit this Radio Receiver to the top right of the Dashboard Upper Panel, aligning the locating pin and screw holes, as shown:
Secure the receiver assembly to the Dashboard Upper Panel from below with two (2) JP screws:
Later on, I did end up replacing the stock Regency scanner with a more detailed one included in the Interior Set 1 from Scaled Modz:
Fit the Instrument Panel with the markings facing out to the front (opening side) of the Instrument Panel Box, as shown:
While holding these together, fit both to the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel and secure with two (2) AP screws, as shown:
It should look like this from the front:
Fit the Radio into this location of the Dashboard Trim, as shown.
The printing on the radio even says ‘MOTOROLA ALL TRANSITOR’ under the dial. I love these details:
Secure the Radio into place from behind with two (2) EP screws:
Fit this Dashboard Trim into this location on the Dashboard Upper Panel, as shown.
When installing this on my model, I had to kind of snap the heads of the radio screws into the holes of the upper panel to make this trim sit flush:
Secure the Dashboard Trim into place from behind with two (2) IP screws:
For these steps, we will need the following wires/switches left over from Stage 38:
- Main Light Switch (Grey) (Part 38E labelled ‘F’)
- Engine Sound Switch (Blue & Green) (Part 38C labelled ‘D’)
- Horn Switch (Green) (Part 38D labelled ‘E’)
- Roof Lights Switch (Blue) (Part 38B labelled ‘C’)
- Siren Switch (White) (Part 38A labelled ‘B’)
- Dashboard Light (Red & White) (Part 38G labelled ‘H’)
Fit the smaller end of the Main Light Switch Cover into this hole from the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel:
The two ‘button covers’ are different, take note of which is which:
We will use the Main Lights one here:
Fit the post of Main Light Switch (Grey) (F) into the back of the Main Light Switch Cover, cover the switch with a Button Retainer as shown, and secure with one (1) EP screw.
This is actually quite frustrating. The parts are tiny, the space is limited, and getting it all lined up is not easy. You may be tempted to over-tighten and strip these screws, but try the solution I mention below instead:
You may notice that I bent the unused pins of the switch around the back of the retainer. These switches are quite loose under the retainers and move around quite a bit. I thought bending the pins would help, but it made very little difference. So, I removed the switch and put some super glue gel on the back of the switch to secure the retainer to it. While the glue was still ‘wet’, I reinstalled the switch. Doing this while the glue is still wet makes it easier to align the switch/retainer and mounting holes, but also holds the switch to the retainer for easier installation:
Once installed, it should look like this from the front:
Fit the smaller end of the Ignition Switch into this hole from the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel, as shown.
The Ignition Switch has a small notch in it:
This notch aligns to a tab in the hole on the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel:
Fit the post of Engine Sound Switch (Blue & Green) (D) into the back of the Ignition Switch, cover it with a Button Retainer, and secure the retainer with one (1) EP screw as shown:
At this point, I was pre-gluing the retainers onto the backs of each switch before install. Remember to install them while the glue is still ‘wet’:
Fit the post of Horn Switch (Green) (E) into this hole from the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel, cover it with a Button Retainer, and secure it into place with one (1) EP screw as shown:
Here are the next two retainers pre-glued to the switches:
Fit the post of Roof Lights Switch (Blue) (C) into this hole from the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel, cover it with a Button Retainer, and secure with one (1) EP screw as shown:
Fit the post of Siren Switch (White) (B) into this hole from the back of the Dashboard Upper Panel, cover it with a Button Retainer, and secure with one (1) EP screw as shown.
This is the last retainer I pre-glued to the switch:
Finally, push the three LEDs of the Dashboard Light (Red & White) (H) into the matching holes in the back of the Instrument Panel Box with the wire facing to the right, as shown.
This was held in place by friction alone and did not need any screws or glue. It should be gently pushed in until the LEDs are seated all the way:
I thought I would include one more picture showing each labelled switch/wire and where they are attached:
We got our first taste of some real electronics wiring, and for me, some of my first swearing at this build! I really struggled with the switch installs until I decided to glue the retainers on first. That made it so much easier!
These five different switches (that are all on the dashboard) control all of the car’s lighting and sounds. Once the steering wheel goes in and the car is closed up, it feels like some of these switches will not be easy to get to. We shall see. I am hoping that the partwork modding community creates a remote wireless control system for us.
Stage 42 – Gentec Antenna, Fuel Gauge, Battery Indicator, Switch Panel, Emergency Brake Pedal
6 thoughts on “STAGE 41”
This made install much easier. Thank you for this detailed guide.
Im there now to and had no big problems with it,looks great,question:how can i test these leds?Don’t want to blow them up with wrong battery testing.
You can use a set of 2-3 AA batteries (3-5V DC) and put at least a 220 ohm resistor inline.
Yes, this was *so* frustrating… May have let out a curse word or two myself on this step (so far)! Thanks for your advice here; I think the glue will make this incredibly easier. This is such a great guide. Thanks again!
You are very welcome, thanks for visiting!